I am currently testing some new features with the Medeek API.

One of these is to offer state snow loads in addition to the ASCE 7-10 national values for ground snow loads.

Note the addition of the variable "localdata" which when set equal to "1" will trigger a local lookup of the snow load values.  By default without setting the localdata variable the API will only give national level values (normal behavior) and the response from the API will remain the same as previous revisions of the API.

Also note that when a localdata lookup is triggered the API must perform a reverse geolocation of the latitude and longitude.  You will probably notice the response time from the API increase by approximately one second.

Currently the states that have snow load data are:

New York
Massachusetts
Utah
Montana

Each State has different methods at arriving at their snow loads, so the addition of each State's data can be a time consuming process.

The plan is to add all of the States that have data that differs evenly slightly from the ASCE 7 ground snow load map.

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Google has a reverse geocode API that I use to get the address based on the latitude and longitude.  Based on the city/county/state I then make a determination with the API as how to determine the local snow loads, each state is different and from there is also depends on each county/municipality depending on the state, so adding new local data can be significant work.

For instance Nevada County in California is based on tabulated values for each elevation however there are an East and West zone and also a small transition zone between them.  The snow load for locations within the east and west zone are merely a function of elevation and linear interpolation between the tabulated values, using the elevation service from google with the tables computation is a snap.  However, snow loads within the transition zone require interpolation for each zone and then interpolation between the two zone based on distances between the zonal boundaries.  It is rather complicated but quite easy to program once you wrap your head around it.   Then to make matters even more complicated the municipality of Truckee with the county has its own special tabulated values and transition zone, so this requires its own programming.

When you use the local data option you always will get the ASCE snow load in addition to any local snow load data.  If there is no data for a location you will notice the API returns "NO DATA" in the local snow load field and the local source field.

As suggested by a current client I will probably add in the geocode (address input option) since it may be easier than first finding the lat/long for a particular location.

I have since incorporated the local data into the regular API so you don't have to use the TEST address to now use the local data option.

I have updated the documentation to include the new options, please take a look at:

http://design.medeek.com/resources/medeekapi.html

Haven't posted in a while, but I'll put up some new information shortly.

Seems like sometimes you need to read between the lines with the code.  One thing I just realized is that the requirement to sheath the interior wall with Gypsum does not apply to certain bracing methods (ie. PFH, ABW).  So my assumption is that the penalty you normally take in calculating the wind and seismic factors with the gypsum omitted goes away with this type of bracing.  Updated calculations for all braced walls show below. 



Based on these calculations the only modification required to the plan is to increase the length of the interior braced wall(s) from 48" to 54" in order to get my 9ft of braced wall panel, originally this was 8ft of braced wall panel.  8ft will pass the seismic requirement but not the wind load.  Initially I thought the seismic loads would dominate with this analysis since I was shooting for SDC D2 but after applying the adjustment factors for the wind it became clear that the wind was just as much a problem.  The reasons for this are: 12/12 pitch of this roof (think large sail), tall wall (10ft), high basic wind speed, large open interior, and high exposure all compound together to make the wind a major factor in the bracing requirements.

Braced Wall Plan below:

This is the latest version of the 4828B, the porch now is 3 risers high and the vestibule has gotten a bit more spacious.





PDF files are here:

http://design.medeek.com/plansets/garages/GARAGE4828B-A6D-3/PDF/GARAGE4828B-A6D-3_ELEVATIONS_CONCEPT8.pdf

http://design.medeek.com/plansets/garages/GARAGE4828B-A6D-3/PDF/GARAGE4828B-A6D-3_FLOORPLANS_CONCEPT4.pdf

Started working on the floor plans for this planset.  Two different versions, one for the 10ft door and the other for the 9ft door.

I'm currently also working on a modified version of planset GARAGE4828-A6D-3.  This new plan has a very similar attic space but the three garage doors are centered and the entry door is on the side of the garage.   It also have a few more windows on the main floor.  I've created some concepts below with different configurations of the garage doors for everyones review:



9ft doors centered on dormers



10ft doors, off center from dormers



10ft doors centered on dormers



9ft doors off centered from dormers



9ft doors off centered from dormers, with arched headers

We have recently added the CAD Library for those who might need some resources for designing their own building project.  The AutoCAD details will be some of the more standard details that I use throughout the plansets.  The Solidworks models will be mostly components that I have created for generating the 3D models of the different designs.  Check out the new CAD Library here:

http://design.medeek.com/cad/cadlibrary.html

I've been using phpBB now for about a year and I've finally decided to switch to SMF by Simple Machines.  It seems like a much better forum software.  My main reason for switch was the amount of spam I was receiving with phpBB, the spam controls are very limited, at least out of the box.

Hopefully, everyone finds this forum software to their liking.  I've also added the member map mod which is a nice bonus.  If anyone has any recommendations for stuff they would like to see added please advise.

Online access to the full 2012 IRC:

http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2012/index.htm

A huge collection of agricultural buildings provided by the University of Tennessee.  Check with current building codes in your area for compliance.

http://bioengr.ag.utk.edu/extension/extpubs/PlanList97.htm

I talked to my HVAC sub-contractor today and we discussed the pros and cons of ducted vs. ductless systems.  My wife doesn't like the idea of heating units hanging off of the walls so I guess that settles that.  However with the attic trusses there isn't a whole lot of room to squeeze in the duct work so I mocked it up roughly to see if we can make it work.  Of course I have no idea how many registers need to go where so its more of an exercise in seeing whether or not we can get the air from the furnace in the basement and distribute it to the attic space.  I think it will work.

Anyone with HVAC experience?  In particular, ducting difficult construction like this?  I would be interested to know what you think.  With the way I have it arranged I should only have to soffit a small section in the garage and avoid soffitting in the office space or attic.

The attic is a bit small for a photography studio (original plan for the space).  So I decided to design a living quarters / apartment instead.  Still trying to figure out how to best frame the angled cuts with the walls as you can see from the image below.  The 60x42 whirlpool tub those has my wife sold, the bearing wall luckily is centered right underneath it.  A tub like that can way almost a 1,000 lbs full. 

I've been designing this shop/studio/garage for the last couple of months, its 24x48, I might increase the size to 28x48.  Anyhow, I'm pretty new to construction so I've spend some quality time reading up on framing, concrete etc...  I think I'm almost there with the design but I found this board that has answered some of my questions so I thought I might post up some screenshots so I can get some feedback before we start spending money...


More pictures here:
http://design.medeek.com/studio/

The new garage will have 10ft walls, attic,  six dormers and maybe an alternate apartment up top. 





Like my previous design this one has 6 dormers but I made them just a bit taller because of the larger roof (28' span).   
Unlike my previous design I went with a dropped top chord on the gable ends, I think this is alot better in terms of strength and good practice. 

There are a few more pictures here, for those interested:

http://design.medeek.com/images/misc/

Any thoughts on what could make this design even better?

I'm really starting to like the idea of a deck off of the gable end, simplifies the interior framing, roof framing and eliminates all of those pesky fire code issues.

If there is a space upstairs used as an office/studio (possibly with 1/2 bathroom) etc... but not a living space or apartment (no bedrooms) then what I have is ok?  If there is a bedroom then I would need to frame a hallway/room at the base of the stairs so that egress to the exterior can be accomplished without passing through the garage.  I thought I'm up on my codes but it seems like I'm always missing something, probably the reason I'm posting on this board.

After designing the stairwell I realized as well that even if the stairwell is insulated and sheetrocked it will be cold down (cold air from the attic will tend to the lowest point) there but I would rather leave the top open then have so many doors closing the space off.  However, if there is an apartment upstair and I remove the door from the landing and frame a small room at the base of the landing/stairs then it might make more sense to close it off up top. 

I would have actually preferred to frame the dormers as you suggested but when I raised the dormer height so that dormer top plate height was 8'1" the dormers looked too high to me.  On a larger span roof (higher ridge) I would probably go this route since it simplifies the dormer roof framing.

I don't prefer open soffits.  When I lived in Utah pretty much everything was closed soffits, usually aluminum soffit and fascia.  Here in Washington the norm seems to be open soffit with vent blocks between the trusses.  Maybe it has something to do with moisture or something, western WA is wet, everything molds out here, including the new dog house I just built, its very annoying.

http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/media/set/?set=at.10151287833961357.524590.533591356.1452421444&type=1



On my previous shed design I used Simpson Strongtie H2.5A to tie the dormer rafters to the dormer walls.  I will probably use those same ties for the outlookers as you suggest.  Wind uplift can be a factor and should be considered.

The sheathing joints on the roof appear to line up with the piggyback truss joint line, how convenient.  I guess my only thought is to cut the first run of sheathing in half and then it straddles it nicely but then I have a sheathing joint near the eaves which weakens that whole interface.  Not sure how to win sometimes.

I added the hold-downs into the model last night, probably a bit of overkill but it should be secure.



I finally got around to taking the PE exam this last October (Mechanical Engineer, Washington State).  However, I've found over the years I'm much more interested in the structual engineering field and now even architecture.  If I can find the right firm I'd like to work toward the requirements for an SE (structural engineer), two more years of experience and a two day 16 hour exam.