A stepdown or midwest hip set with a drop-in purlin frame:



View model here:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=5d01af7e-a966-42c2-8355-88b5964e6d8c

There is some minor conflicts at the top chord of the frame with the hip trusses and at the peak but I don't think it is worth worrying about.

I have found that for manual editing of members the "trim" function is becoming a very valuable tool, it has already saved me a lot of time when adjusting webs and chords as I adjust or drop some of the hip truss top chords.  I strongly suggest that everyone upgrade to the latest version (1.6.8 ) to take advantage of the improved trim function.  I now need to get the extend function working.

The revised california hip set with a stacked hip rafter:



View model here:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=97644895-c988-435c-bdc4-c7b8956a6d46

This is the California Hip Set:



View model here:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=c17f8767-de27-44bd-b589-fbb186ea09fc

The problem I am having with this variant is the conflict between the 2x6 hip rafter and the top chords of the step down hip trusses.

This is the Northeast Hip Set variant:



View model here:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=7a091720-b221-4b49-b59b-f797f95211e6

In a northeast hip set, you will find a short jack truss starting at the corner and running up the hip ridge. This hip jack stops at a sub-girder. All end jack bottom chords run to the hip girder, allowing for better attachment of the drywall on the ceiling. Hip cats must be field cut and installed between the hip trusses. Works well with dual-pitched hip systems.

Again I apologize for the delay in development, first it was my new job and then I re-injured my rotator cuff (old injury from 10 years ago) which has made sitting at my desk for prolonged periods very difficult.

This morning I sat down and thought about hip sets since I've had some recent requests for the their addition to the plugin.  What I show below is a fairly standard step down hip set with, with the midwest variant shown at one corner and the standard variant at the other corner. 



View model here:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=aa9db54b-4a66-412e-86fd-94e3e676e0b5

Note, I have not shown all of the internal webs for clarity, those will be generated automatically and not be user definable. 

Please review carefully and let me know if anything looks amiss.  I will also be adding in other variants of the hip set but I figured I would start with these two.

A stepdown hip set provides a girder truss, with a hip jack truss running from the corners up the ridge until they meet the hip girder.

The Midwest hip set also provides a girder truss, with hip trusses that step up to the peak.
However in a Midwest hip set, you run a rafter (dropped) up from the corner of the front wall to the hip girder.
All the bottom chords of the end jacks run to the hip girder, allowing for better attachment of the drywall on the ceiling.

My new job has kept me away for the last few weeks so that getting anything done on the plugins has been a real challenge.  Even so I've been giving some thought to stepped footings/foundations and would like some input from the designers and architects out there on what is common practice and what they would like to see available for this sort of feature within the plugin.



View mode here:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=f83f65ea-35e6-46f7-9d6c-f0b09b13a663

Note that I messed up on this model the exterior cripple/pony walls should have only had one top plate so that the combined top plate from the shallow sections and the single top plate would have created the typical double top plate.

Version 1.0.3 - 08.28.2016
- Enabled interior bearing wall(s) with strip footing.



View model here:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=89ee7df4-f895-437f-be51-553aa55bee08

I still need to enable the ability to add framed openings into the interior stud walls.  Interior stud/bearing walls can be created with single or double top plates and can be full span or partial spanning as shown in the image above.

Also note that the studs are aligned from the right side of the stemwall foundation edge so that they line up directly under the floor joists.

I've created a SketchUp model tonight using the truss and foundation plugins to further examine a structural design I am working on.



View and download model here:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=cb424537-7ad2-4afb-a53b-1ab547feec26

I think I will probably add a TJI roof that allows one to use two glulam beams with cantilevered rafters as shown in this model, this configuration seems to be fairly popular.

Version 1.6.8 - 08.20.2016
- Added the Medeek Tools toolbar with Trim and Extend icons.
- Added the trim function for (solid) groups and components.

Only the trim function currently works with this latest release.  I'm also not completely satisfied with the trim function as it tends to break down when dealing with components that have tranformed instances.  I am still working on this one.  The main reason I've released it is for a few of my SketchUp mentors to have the ability to test the trim function and hopefully help me work the bugs out of it.

I haven't had any time this week or even this weekend to dive back into it yet but the icons for the Medeek Tools Menu (trim and extend for now) will look like this:

Version 1.6.7 - 07.21.2016
- Added a counter battens option within the battens menu for common, scissor and vaulted trusses.
- Battens (at peak) can be offset from peak.
- Peak-to-Eave spacing enabled when "battens at peak" option is selected.

This was a very small update so I just tucked it into the latest revision.

I can add another input field into the menu which will allow the offset from the peak:

Offset from Peak (mm):

I can also put in another option that will allow for the equal spacing between peak and eave battens with the spacing input serving as the max. batten spacing if this option is enabled:

Spacing Peak-to-Eave: YES/NO

I think this will then give you the flexibility you need to make this feature actually useful in real world applications.

Another thing to note is that the battens will work with the roof returns option but I currently have no logic in place to deal with the extension at the eave.  I may need to give this some more thought:

Version 1.6.7 - 07.21.2016
- Added a counter battens option within the battens menu for common, scissor and vaulted trusses.



View model here:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=3bb5c81a-ffd0-4f2f-8cf0-34bf6279428e

Counter battens can be applied with our without sheathing.  The counter battens are centered on the trusses below therefore their spacing is not independently controlled. 

Based on my research it appears that counter battens are usually only applied when battens are laid on top of a sheathed roof.  However I have left the option open to apply them without the sheathing in case one wanted to apply them directly to the truss top chords over a vapor barrier.

Version 1.6.6 - 07.15.2016
- Added roof battens option within the advanced options menu for common, scissor and vaulted trusses.
- Battens can be offset from the fascia board.
- Battens at peak option enabled.



View model here:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=e7f7a812-53da-4c57-b40a-b28bbacf96e2

Currently this feature is only available for truss roofs, I still need to add it to hip and gable rafter roofs.

If sheathing is enabled with battens, the battens are placed on top of the sheathing.

This is a quick study of a post frame roof using doubled trusses with 2x6 purlins @ 24" o/c.  This is pretty typical for a  pole barn or post frame building constructed locally:



View model here:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=0240f563-8350-460d-b07c-9f7dae117782

Notice how the rake and fascia boards are raised above the trusses so that they are flush with the roof plane and purlins.  The overhang can be achieved a number of ways but one method is to extend rafters from an inboard purlin and also attach to the post as shown. 



There are a number of other ways to frame the overhang, a quick search online will attest to this.  Sometimes a header is used between posts which allows for a truss spacing which is closer than the post spacing.

Purlins position right at the peak seems fairly standard, based on some plansets that I have.

When you add end walls with posts you can usually eliminate the doubled truss at the gable ends and you often will see a gable end truss that has girts (horiz. members) instead of studs.



With a purlin roof I almost need to create a separate menu item and module to properly deal with it.

Here is an interesting double truss design but with scissor trusses: