Recent Posts

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Version 0.8.7b - 07.19.2018
- Added a 5-Lite Circular Grille for all window types.
- Enabled all standard grille types for oval and round windows.



View model here:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/34b3256b-040c-4cb9-a662-d8b2491d077a/Window-Test-6

This grille pattern was added per customer request, also note that it can be applied to any of the other rectangular window types (picture, single hung, slider).

Lately I've been having so many smaller feature requests that it has been hard to focus on some of the big ticket items.  I am doing my best not to be side tracked by these minor items and to just add them to the todo list so I can attend to them at a later date. 

The todo list is now over three pages long, so rather than shrink it has continued to grow.  Honestly the amount of items I'm currently looking at is really the work of an entire team of programmers, not just a single person.  So if my progress seems rather slow at times then it probably is.

I've been trying to get some of my kids (teenagers) interested in helping out with some of the coding over their summer break but they seemed to be more inclined to spend their time playing computer/console games.  I call them the Angry Birds or Pokemon Go generation.  All of this technology is great but unless it is harnessed correctly it seems more detrimental than good.
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Medeek Wall Plugin / Re: Development and Updates for the Medeek Wall Plugin
« Last post by Medeek on July 18, 2018, 02:14:22 pm »
I have been primarily focused on the imperial/US units during the development but I also realize that a lot of current users are utilizing the plugin in metric units.  I am not at all familiar with construction and construction documents in metric units so I need a little help here.

What I am talking about is the callouts for windows and doors.  What is the appropriate way to show these callouts in metric units?  What is common or accepted practice?
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Version 1.1.6b - 07.18.2018
- Fixed a bug in the updated registration system.

This is a critical update, the recently release version 1.1.6 will not allow the registration of the serial number.
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Medeek Wall Plugin / Re: Development and Updates for the Medeek Wall Plugin
« Last post by Medeek on July 18, 2018, 07:08:58 am »
Version 0.8.7 - 07.18.2018
- Added oval and round windows to the window draw and edit modules.
- Enabled trim, casing and window installation for oval and round windows.





I haven't enabled shutters or grilles yet for this window type, it is not high on my todo list unless I receive additional requests for these features.

The trim and casing options are also pretty much plain jane for now.

Let's see if I can't knock out the Garage Door module this evening.

I also thought it might be helpful to reiterate that if you are an educator (teacher, professor, school) or a student I am offering full licenses of all my plugins for educational use.  All that I ask is you provide some form of student ID or other proof that you are associated with an educational institution.  The educational licenses provided to educators also allow installation on up to 50 seats.
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Medeek Wall Plugin / Re: Development and Updates for the Medeek Wall Plugin
« Last post by Medeek on July 17, 2018, 08:56:14 pm »
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Medeek Wall Plugin / Re: Development and Updates for the Medeek Wall Plugin
« Last post by Medeek on July 17, 2018, 12:51:30 pm »
Oval / Round windows are certainly something new and a bit more challenging but now that I've got the algorithms worked out the rest is just a matter of generating the code.



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Medeek Wall Plugin / Re: Development and Updates for the Medeek Wall Plugin
« Last post by Medeek on July 16, 2018, 05:16:57 pm »
For a triple casement window I am thinking a single frame with three sashes, does this seem reasonable?

Also I was thinking about oval and round windows earlier today and they are really one in the same, the only difference being the aspect ratio (height/width).  A round window is an oval window with an AR = 1.0:



Hence the window height and width will drive the shape of the oval, really no different than a rectangular window.
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Medeek Wall Plugin / Re: Development and Updates for the Medeek Wall Plugin
« Last post by Medeek on July 16, 2018, 04:29:58 am »
Version 0.8.6b - 07.16.2018
- Added shutters: Solid, Flat Panel, Raised Panel, Louver, Board & Batten to arched windows.
- Shutter geometry parameter allows for: Left, Right or Double.
- Fixed bug in arched window module that was causing unpredictable push-pull behavior.
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Medeek Wall Plugin / Re: Development and Updates for the Medeek Wall Plugin
« Last post by Medeek on July 16, 2018, 04:00:06 am »
Left, Right and Double:



View model here:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/f3001ec7-84ca-46da-b879-7ac7c3d80cd2/Window-Test-5

I've also addressed a bug with arched geometry where the push-pull direction was giving unpredictable results (flipping flopping between in and out).  Turns out that you need to clock your segments all in the same direction to get predictable results, which makes sense.  For some reason this did not occur to me as I was coding some of these sections of the main window module.
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General Forum / Fink Trusses - Repair and Load Bearing Walls
« Last post by Toots on July 15, 2018, 10:30:50 pm »
Hi Nathan,

I'm at about the end of my rope trying to deal with my current house.  I am in a very rural area and I have tried in vain now for almost a year to find an engineer that will help me with this problem. 

First I'll describe my problem, and then the responses I've gotten so far.

I have a 1978 ranch.  It has fink style trusses spanning 28 ft o.d. to the exterior walls.  The first issue, is that I'd like to remove a small section of interior wall between our living room and kitchen.  It runs perpendicular to the trusses.  I am fairly certain it is not load bearing, but I'd love some input on that.  I'll tell you what carpenters and the one architect(not an engineer) that would at least talk to me on the phone have said below.  The tricky thing here, is that where the house turns a corner, they put 2x6 rafters to transition between the garage trusses and house trusses which are at 90 degrees to each other in orientation.  One end of the rafters actually sit on top of the trusses in the corner valley, so there are a couple trusses in there that are carrying considerably more roof load than any other trusses in the roof structure.  These also happen to be above where I'd like tot take that wall out....

The second issue, is that when I went up to examine the roof structure above the wall, several of the peak truss webs and some along the top plate of the roof have failed or are not in good shape. One or two completely popped off.  It looks like some of the web members(fir) twisted and popped the web off due to maybe humidity shifts.  The house has partition walls all over, and the trusses are spaced 16" o.c. so even with a couple failed trusses the roof hasn't gone anywhere.


Okay, so Problem #1, is the wall load bearing. There are three local architect firms(by local I mean within a 2 hour drive) that have a structural engineer on staff.  None of them will do residential work.  One was willing to send an architect to look at it for $500, but said they wouldn't work on it or provide designs because of liability and the age of the trusses and unknown manufacturer, and if they found any problems their engineers don't do residential work anyway.  Okay....not helpful.

One architect was willing to take about 15 mins on the phone with me even though his firm won't do residential.  He said the chances the wall is load bearing are very small to none because the bottom plate of a fink truss is designed to be in tension not compression.  Also, he said because there is no beam below the wall or anything else to carry the load to the slab in the basement, that automatically disqualifies the wall from being load bearing because a home would never be designed to carry roof load on your floor joists.  There is also no header above the doors in this wall.  The wall runs the entire length of the house but it jogs over several times, so it is not contacting the trusses at the same point along the whole house.  You can see the first 1 ft jog in the pictures.

The general contractors and carpenters(who came in person) all agreed the wall was not load bearing, but they didn't seem confident.  I could tell all of them were not really familiar with how trusses work.  Again we are very rural.  Again I'm a bit nervous because these trusses carry extra rafter load around the corner.

Now as far as problem #2 is concerned, I wouldn't consider doing anything with the wall until those truss webs are repaired.  I have searched high and low.  The architect on the phone didn't seem concerned, his exact words were "I'd just get some plywood and structural screws and sandwich the webs with 2'x2' pieces and get as many screws in as you can."  I know people repair gusset plates this way but it seems a bit cavalier in a "house fall down" type situation.  Again, I can't find any engineers to work on this.

Below are my crude drawings of the home, the wall in question from an end gable and top view, as well as a picture of the top plate of the wall in question nailed to the bottom of the trusses in the attic.  All members are fir.  Our roof snow load is 20 psf, but I understand builders use 30 psf in the area out of caution.

Any input or guidance is GREATLY appreciated.  I'm desperate at this point to fix this.  Even if I can't get that wall out I have to get those webs repaired(but I really want that wall out).

Link to Pics: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QjOFGX9ZGl_TIPniHx3nT4panApzvs8Q
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